Skincare Caution: Experts Warn Against Teens' Risky Retinoid Obsession

As the popularity of retinoids skyrockets on TikTok, with the hashtag amassing over 4.8 billion views, experts are sounding the alarm on the dangers of young skin being exposed to these potent anti-aging ingredients. Cosmetic surgeon Dr. Douglas McGeorge cautions that children as young as nine are using retinoids, which could lead to more harm than good.

Putting Skin at Risk: The Dangers of Teenage Retinoid Use

Retinoids: A Double-Edged Sword for Young Skin

Retinoids, a form of vitamin A, have revolutionized the beauty industry, with celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Nicole Kidman, and Victoria Beckham incorporating them into their anti-aging routines. However, these powerful ingredients are typically intended for women over 30, when collagen production starts to slow down. Dermatologists are now witnessing a concerning trend of skincare-obsessed tweens and teens incorporating retinoids into their multi-step regimes, often in an attempt to treat acne.Dr. Douglas McGeorge, a British aesthetician, argues that this practice is "absurd" and could be doing "more harm than good." He explains that retinoids are designed to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and peel off the superficial layers, which is not the appropriate approach for young, healthy skin. "In essence, what you're doing is you're putting acids on your face, and acid isn't necessarily useful for young skin," he cautions.

Overloaded with Information and Misguided Advice

The rise in teenage retinoid use can be attributed to the overwhelming amount of information available online, coupled with aggressive marketing tactics from companies targeting young consumers. Dr. McGeorge explains that these children "read the adverts, 'This cures this and this will help that', and inevitably they're seduced into buying the product because they don't have the experience or knowledge to know whether it's appropriate or not for them."During puberty, it's common for young people to experience hormonal changes that lead to acne breakouts. While retinoids can be used to treat severe acne, Dr. McGeorge emphasizes that they should only be prescribed by a medical professional, as they can have damaging side effects. "If you have a significant problem with spots, you should seek some medical advice and get the appropriate treatment — not try and do it yourself with things that you can buy on the internet," he advises.

The Risks of Improper Skincare Routines

Attempting to treat acne with over-the-counter retinol products can lead to more harm than good, according to Dr. McGeorge. "All these products basically try to strip the skin of the oils to try and get around the problem — and that isn't necessarily good for the skin." He warns that the use of inappropriate treatments could result in more scarring, and he's unsure if the children who have already started applying shop-bought retinol have done "irreparable damage" to their skin.

Gentle Cleansers and SPF: The Foundations of Healthy Skin

Instead of reaching for harsh, potent treatments, Dr. McGeorge recommends a more gentle approach for young skin. He endorses the use of clinically proven skincare brands, such as Science of Skin, which offer products like a Rescue Cleanser and a Solution for Scars cream. However, the expert emphasizes that the most important investment parents can make in their children's skin health is sunscreen."For kids nowadays, if they are getting problems [with their skin], gentle cleansers are the way forward. If they've got dry skin, use a gentle moisturiser that's got an SPF factor in it, so that you're protecting your skin from the sunshine, because long term it's sunshine that does a lot of the damage," he advises.Dr. McGeorge cautions against the use of "fancy creams" for children unless they have a significant problem with acne, in which case they should seek professional medical advice. He encourages parents to consult with their pharmacist or healthcare provider to ensure they are using appropriate and safe products for their child's skin.